Nicole Schiavi, International Christian Embassy Jerusalem
April 28, 2003

JERUSALEM - It was a day when some Catholics became Orthodox, and many laymen became priests.

As the various denominations that claim rights within the Holy Sepulchre church looked to beef up their ranks on Saturday, many men who are not priests received priest's garments so they could help defend their portion of the church, and their patriarch, in case fighting broke out.

Despite the sanctity of the Sabbath of Light ceremony, many prepare for war, not worship inside the stone halls of the Holy Sepulchre Church in Jerusalem's Old City. The various denominations that occupy portions of the church jealously guard their territory and what they view as their rights. Disputes here can last decades.

Last year, within the area considered by Orthodox and Catholics the tomb of Jesus, the Greek Patriarch and an Armenian priest came to blows leading to a scuffle between clergymen.

But a last-minute deal between feuding Greek and Armenian churches may have averted a brawl for which the city and local churches had braced themselves on Saturday. City officials did not disclose terms of the deal, although the decision reversed an earlier move to limit the number of worshipers allowed entry to the church for fear of violence between rival groups.

This year, the holiest day of the Orthodox Easter week brought to the Holy Sepulchre 6,000 pilgrims and local Christians, but also hundreds of police and soldiers.

Though there was no fight, the Church was anything but peaceful as thousands of people waited shoulder-to-shoulder for up to four hours. After the Armenian delegation quietly filed in, as is their custom, Catholic worshippers filled their side even though this is not their Easter. Then the Syrian Coptics, by far the liveliest group, waved banners, chanted and played Arabic drums to announce their entry to the church.

Meanwhile, police and priests constantly scuffled in front of the tomb area. Priests raced to and from their Church's section of the building and shouted instructions to people.

Finally, at around 1:30 p.m., the Greek delegation entered with the Patriarch from Greece who circled the Church three times dressed in full regalia and surrounded by Greek and Israeli security. After the third round, the Patriarch was prepared to enter the tomb along with an Armenian priest. Last year, the fight occurred inside the tomb between the Greek Patriarch and another Armenian priest.

This year, there was no fight inside, but a fight almost broke out outside the tomb as a Coptic priest slipped past Israeli police and neared the door of the tomb. That caused a near riot as a Greek priest also tried to barrel through the blockade. The crowd of hundreds in front of the tomb - including police, priest and hapless worshippers - swayed back and forth on the brink of a clash as a police commander yelled "Sheket!" (Silence!) through a bullhorn.

A potential melee when diverted when just a few minutes later the lights in the dank sanctuary dimmed signalling that the "holy fire" was about to be passed from within the tomb.

The Armenian priest passed the flame from within the tomb to a man waiting outside a hole in the wall of the tomb, which is inside the church's center. That flame was used as a relay to light the candles of the thousands of people inside the church. Almost instantly the church was alight with roaring candles, mini torches, in all quarters of the cavernous building. Bells gonged cheerfully while pilgrims from Armenia, Greece, Russia and local Christians took pictures and wept.

And almost as quickly as the flame was passed, the crowds began dissipating and the service was over.

The holy flame, church leaders say, is spontaneous and leaps from the tomb. But regardless, the event is usually scheduled and this year appeared on time at its expected 2 p.m.

People needed a pass this year to enter even the roads near the Holy Sepulchre. Crowds began amassing within the Old City at 9 a.m. even though the light was not expected until 2 p.m.

At 10 a.m. police began allowing people to enter the church but they were carefully escorted to the side indicated on their pass depending on whether they received the pass from Greek, Armenian or Coptic patriarchates.

The Holy Sepulchre was dedicated by Constantine in the 4th century as the site now recognized by Orthodox and Catholics where the death, burial and resurrection of Jesus took place. The present church was built in 1810.

Today about 14 denominations claim some degree of rights in the church, but six have rights to hold daily services in the church including Armenian Orthodox, Coptic, Ethiopian, Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic, and Syrian Orthodox, all still governed by a "status quo" agreement reached during Ottoman times. Currently, all denominations abide by a decision that allows a Muslim family in the Old City to hold the keys to the church.